I’ve now been living in South Beach, Miami, for over a month
and I think it’s time to go home.
The other day I was walking on Lincoln Road behind a six-foot-tall
curvaceous female wearing only a tiny black string bikini and very tall spike
heels, and I took a good second look to decide whether she was a man or a
woman.
This is not such a strange reaction on my part, since nearby
Ocean Drive swarms with gay bars and drag brunches in its elegant Art Deco
hotels. Absolutely no extreme
or peculiar dress gets a second look on Lincoln Road, while back home in
Worcester, MA, the bikini-wearing vision in front of me might get arrested, if
she was walking on Main Street.
Lincoln Road, the heart of South Beach, was re-designed
around 1960, by Miami Beach architect Morris Lapidus. His design for Lincoln Road, with
exotic gardens, bubbling fountains, raised “grassy knolls” for kids to play on
and an amphitheater, reflected the Miami Modern
Architecture, or "MiMo", style. The road was
closed to traffic and became one of the nation's first pedestrian
malls—stretching for eight blocks from Alton Road to Washington Avenue.
I’ve been since Aug. 12, renting an apartment in the same
Art-deco building where daughter Eleni, her husband Emilio and my first
grandchild, two-week-old Amalía, live.
(For an account of Eleni’s trials, tribulations and triumphs mastering
the art of breast feeding, check out her blog post, “Say Yes to the Breast.”)
Every morning I set out to the nearest
Starbucks, half a block away, past the optimistically waiting pigeons, to get my
coffee and newspaper and then I walk up and down Lincoln Road, marveling at the
rare and amazing species of
people, animals, flowers and birds.
This is surely the most exotic, bizarre and just plain weird street I’ve
ever seen, and this is coming from someone who lived on Manhattan’s 14th
street in the 1960’s and is familiar with Venice Beach in LA and Haight Ashbury
back in the day. Skate-board champs, shirtless and covered with
tattoos, somehow avoid running down Hasidic Jews and bikinied beauties.
Every day you see the regulars—panhandlers and
people who earn money as living statues (this one is Ghost Elvis)
or weaving palm fronds into baskets,
juggling or letting people admire his pet ferret (or whatever this is.)
There are a plethora of design stores and art
galleries. I loved this piece of
art work—a dog excreting a long length of pink fabric—juxtaposed with the
nearby Dog-pot.
If you are a seasoned Lincoln Road pedestrian,
your accessory of choice is a small dog or a baby in a stroller, and your
vehicle is a Segway, or a skateboard, a rented bicycle or a motorized wheel chair.
I think no street anywhere has the caliber of
restaurants, food stores and cafes as those found on Lincoln Road. I’m trying
to taste every one of the tartes at Paul’s, which is so French that both staff
and clientele seem to speak French most of the time.
I’ve already discovered my favorite flavor of
ice cream at Kilwins. (It’s Kilwin’s
Tracks—they throw in bits of all their hand-made candies.)
The Ice Box, which serves indescribable
brunches, makes, according to Oprah, “the best cake in the United States”. Good thing there’s no scale in this
rented apartment.
All the restaurants lining Lincoln Road have
tables indoors and outside, and most people sit outside, despite the sweltering
heat. Cooling fans and misting
machines make it bearable.
Overhead are towering palm trees chock full of
parrots and parakeets which squawk non-stop and sometimes come down to be hand-fed
morsels
Orchids
grow parasitically on many trees but the most famous tree on Lincoln
Road is this “Orchid Tree” dripping with
blooms that look like orchids but bloom only at night. Its proper name is Bauhinia Varigata.
Lincoln Road turns into an outdoor market every
Sunday, selling every exotic type of fruit or flower or spice or Latin food
that you can think of.
An atmosphere of sin hangs heavy over the street, especially at night. There are party busses with smoked glass windows and advertisements for “No-Tell Hotels”.
Every time I walk by the “Vice Lounge” I wonder what goes on inside. This is what the outside looks like.
When you have exhausted all the pleasures and
vices of Lincoln Road, you can continue to the end, where the Ritz Hotel offers
the best Happy Hour food and drink around. (Every single restaurant and bar has a happy hour every day,
sometimes starting at noon.) Or
you can hitch a parachute right on the beach.
No wonder every time I walk down Lincoln Road I
feel like Alice falling through the rabbit hole or Dorothy landing in Oz. But like those two ladies, I’ll
have to return home in the end.
Sadly I’m leaving South Beach and my new granddaughter in four days. Dorothy said, “There’s no place like
home”, but I’m here to tell you, home is no place like Lincoln Road.