On October 21, The New York Times ran an essay called “Why Can’t Middle-Aged Women Have Long Hair? by Dominique Browning, originally written for her blog “SlowLoveLife.”
The
subject clearly hit a nerve. The Times received 1200 comments,
overwhelming its editors until they finally ordered an end to the
discussion.
Dominique
Browning cited the way her own long hair disturbed people, including
her mother, because she was well over 40 (In fact she’s 55). She asked
why long flowing locks were considered inappropriate for older women. “Why do people judge middle-aged long hair so harshly?”
Passionate opinions were submitted on both sides of the argument.
Because
I’m an avid collector of antique pre-1900 photographs, I wondered if
some of the acrimony about long hair may have been coming from our
national subconscious. Did we inherit the attitudes of our parents’
and grandparents’ generation—that long hair was too sexy to be seen in
public—and do we even today feel that sexy hair is not appropriate for
women of a certain age?
In
my grandmother’s day (she was married—to a Presbyterian minister—in
1896) a girl was expected to pile her locks on top of her head on the
day she became a woman and entered society. She was supposed to bind
her tresses into a prim bun with hairpins, and then never let any man
see her with her hair down except for her husband.
In
fact the older women portrayed in my earliest daguerreotypes often wear
lace mob caps—like Martha Washington—to cover their hair INSIDE THE
HOUSE. (Their outdoor bonnets would be put on top of these caps.)
You
don’t need to be an anthropologist to draw a parallel from the mob caps
of America’s founding mothers to the hijabs of Muslim countries today.
Before 1900, no reputable woman would wear cosmetics or dye her hair. (I once owned a Ladies Home Journal magazine from the early 20th century that solemnly warned: women who dye their hair will go mad.)
Today’s
erogenous zones—bosom, legs, butt, thighs—were never seen in the early
days of photography. (The first photographs were daguerreotypes,
beginning in 1839 .)
In
the dags in my collection from the 1840’s and 1850’s, women’s breasts
were tightly bound and a flat piece of wood or whalebone, called a busk,
was inserted into the corset, so that it was physically impossible to
slouch.
Here’ s a definition I found on the internet:
Originally,
a busk was a piece of carved wood or bone that was set into a pocket in
a corset front to make the front completely straight and ridged. Busks
were nearly always used in Tudor and Elizabethan corsets, and in certain
styles of the 17th and 18th, and the early 19th century.
Elaborately
carved busks were a common gift from a young man to his sweetheart.
Sailors carved bones with Scrimshaw designs as gifts for the girls back
home
So
for our grandmothers, the sexiest thing they had going for them was
long, beautiful hair. Victorian advertisements for hair-growing
lotions were a sort of soft-core porn, often featuring voluptuous women
naked except for their astonishingly full and long hair. (Like Lady
Godiva. And then there’s Rapunzel—the subject of the animated film
“Tangled” which is currently a huge success. I think long hair is
definitely having a moment right now.)
Then
there came a moment—in the 1920’s—when cutting one’s hair into a short,
flapper’s bob was considered scandalous, daring, a statement of female
rebellion against society’s mores—like smoking a cigarette in public.
For
the best description of just how daring short hair was in the twenties,
check out F. Scott Fitzgerald’s story “Bernice Bobs Her Hair” from
1922. (You can find it on line.) A sophisticated, popular “mean girl”
tricks her unpopular country cousin into bobbing her hair in hopes of
winning popularity. When it backfires, the country cousin takes revenge
in kind.
Today
the tables have turned again—the rebel is not the woman who bobs her
hair—she’s the women of middle age or beyond (even crone-hood!) who
dares to wear her gray-streaked or white hair long, even though she’s
far past girlhood. I can think of a handful of well-aged women who
flaunt their flowing locks—Cher, Susan Sarandon, Diane Keaton. Among
personal friends, I immediately think of a very chic Manhattan beauty,
Marina, whose cascade of white hair has become her trademark and earned
her a place in a New York Times feature about people who have their own
unique style.
Personally
I’ve never worn my hair long—except for the period in the late sixties
when I rocked a beehive. I’ve always taken the easy way out, with
short hair, but for those middle-aged women like Dominique Browning, and
even past-middle-aged beauties courageous enough to flaunt their
crowning glory, I think there should be a medal of honor, say a Croix de
Cheveux.